How To Shoot Outdoor Off-Camera Fill Flash – HIGHLY DETAILED

17 01 2014

In this example, Gary Fong is using the Nikon D-SLR Flash and an SB900. This includes a button-by-button, menu-by-menu explanation including hardware requirements of how to shoot with outdoor fill flash, and includes a comparison between available light, Lightsphere, and Studio Umbrella flash. For product information, please CLICK HERE.

How To Take Great Photos In Front Of The Christmas Tree

23 12 2013

Finally – just in time to save your holiday memories – the way to fix your camera so you get great pictures under the tree!

** Very Important Video On Backing Up Your Files **

17 12 2013

Hi from Gary Fong. I made the following video in response to some important lost image files.  Many files are lost because of an improper backup system, and it’s super important to have a very clear and concise method to storing your files properly.

In this clip, I explain why the best backup is your original media cards, and why it may be a lot safer to use a small number of very large memory cards than multiple small ones.

I think this is a very important video, even if you feel that you have your digital file asset management wired.  Enjoy.

Understanding F-stops and Manual Shooting Mode on DSLR

6 12 2013

In this YouTube Video Gary Fong presents a quick guide to understanding f-stops, apertures, and Manual mode shooting on a D-SLR.

Posing Tips and Overcoming Focusing Issues with your DLSR

4 12 2013

In this video tutorial Gary Fong gives tips on posing and focusing when using your DSLR Camera.This is an Interior shoot using a Canon 7D and Off-Camera Flash. He shows how to incorporate backgrounds to create design eliments, and how to overcome the focusing issues with most DSLR’s.

Another Ugly Room Made Beautiful

17 02 2013

We all have run into the situation where we have an awful area to shoot.

When I was a novice photographer, I would really freak out in a non-studio setting. Then I’d start moving furniture around to try to find a clean background that looked decent. And the lighting in the room would be typically be awful. Using flash made it worse. What I didn’t know then was that I could eliminate the surrounding room entirely, by simply using directed flash to eliminate the ugly room.

The easiest way to understand flash photography is to grasp the concept that with flash, there are actually two exposures going on; the first one is the “ambient” light, with a much higher speed “blitz” of flash as another simultaneous exposure. The neat thing is that you can mix the two independently so that your flash can “blend” with the ambient light, or you can make your flash relatively so powerful, that the ambient light disappears. This is especially handy when you have an ugly background!

In the example above, the first photo on the left shows where my model was. left, She is sitting at the bottom of a stairwell in a utility building. From that very spot, using only two speedlights and my Snoot and Lightsphere with color tabs, I was able to instantly create the dramatic images you see above.

I have been very very busy making instructional YouTube videos – right now I have over 9,000 subscribers and over 2.7 million page views. I’m all about making instructional videos because I so often see photographers who don’t understand flash, and therefore have use whatever light is available. With just a few pieces of inexpensive equipment, they could quickly create awesome results. I can make blue skies on cloudy days, and I can make a swimming pool look like a fiery red cauldron. In seconds!

Thanks for reading this far into my email – it shows you’re interested in this topic. So, as a thanks for your interest and support, please feel free to take 20% off of any purchase on my e-store at, just use coupon code YOUTUBE20 when checking out. And watch this video below. If you are open to changing your photography dramatically, I am pretty confident you’ll leap with excitement at what you can do!

Why DSLR’s Using Continuous Lighting Have Exposure Problems

29 12 2012

I’m often asked when we will be putting out a diffuser for LED Continuous Light Units.  The answer to that is, the problem with your images may have issues that have nothing to do with diffusion.  It’s the nature of continuous light sources.  They do not have metering!

If you have a continuous light source, when your subject moves closer to the light, of course your subject will be brighter.  To compensate for that, your DSLR will typically meter on your subject’s face, therefore it will instantly increase the shutter speed or close the aperture to make sure the face isn’t blown out.  When the camera does this, the background becomes dark.  That’s because the difference in the mixture of your continuous light and the background is greater.

Using continuous lighting is therefore preferable for subjects that do not move (as in, portraiture).  Additionally, the color temperature of your light will typically not match the background light.  You could use a warming, “tungsten” color filter, but when the camera’s auto white balance corrects the color temperature in, say, auto white balance, the entire image will look neutral balanced, or like it was taken outdoors on a cloudy day.  This will then no longer look like an indoor image.

This is the reason flash units are used by professionals.  Reason 1) TTL metering and the ability to “mix” your available light with your flash pop, 2) auto white balance using flash will produce a midway color temperature between the incandescent tungsten and your subject.